Eyelash and eyebrow serums are products that ostensibly promote the growth of and/or reduce the loss of eyelash and eyebrow hairs. Originally, the active ingredients used were substances known as prostaglandins and synthetic analogues of these, but consumers have experienced adverse effects when using products containing these substances. Today, prostaglandin-free alternatives are available. The aim of this report was to gain knowledge on the active ingredients used in prostaglandin-free serums. The project investigated the safety of peptides used as active ingredients in serum products.
Almost 90% of the surveyed serum products contained peptides and/or amino acids as active ingredients. Other active ingredients used in serums include vitamins, hyaluronic acid and various plant extracts. Peptides are organic substances made up of amino acids found in all living organisms, and are building blocks for the formation of proteins used to build the body's cells, hormones, tissues etc.. The use of 20 unique peptides was identified in the 44 serum products surveyed in the project. Three of these peptides were used in several of the surveyed serum products, and a detailed hazard assessment was performed for these.
Although no specific toxicological data was found on the peptide substances, data on the components of these substances (fatty acids, vitamin B7 and various amino acids) did not identify any critical effects, and the three peptide substances were assessed to be unproblematic for health. It was therefore concluded that the use of the three peptide substances in the serum products does not pose any health risks.